At the start of the 19th century Thorpeness was just an unassuming hamlet with a few little cottages for the resident fishermen and their families. Then along came the Scottish barrister Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie, who had the vision to turn Thorpeness into a fantastical holiday village for his friends and family to enjoy.
These days Thorpeness maintains the same sense of carefree fun, with a beautiful boating lake, inspired by the story of Peter Pan, a 70ft high whimsical cottage in the clouds, mock-Tudor homes, and plenty to see and do. You can’t help but get carried away with the storybook nostalgia of it all, so, whether you are a couple, a family or a group of friends, why not head off for an adventure in this intriguing seaside village on the Suffolk coast.
Saturday Morning
Arrive in the morning, via the green and winding roads, past the stately looking Almshouses built in the 1920’s, and into the village where you’ll be instantly charmed by the quaint buildings and friendly atmosphere.
At the heart of the village is the large ‘meare’; an artificial boating lake which was once an Elizabethan shipping haven. The Ogilvie family were friends with the notable author J.M. Barrie whose most famous work ‘Peter Pan’ formed the inspiration for the meare with its collection of little islands and inlets. The channels and landings are named after parts of the Peter Pan story with ‘Wendy’s house’ and ‘The pirates’ lair’ and ‘Captain’s house’ among them. Hiring a row boat and exploring the Meare is a tantalising adventure for children and the young at heart so choose from one of the multi-coloured boats (which all have names!) and set sail.
Keep an eye out for the wildlife that make the meare their home; from ducks, swans and geese to herons and sometimes even kingfishers there is plenty to see above the water, and frogs, rudd, roach and carp below the surface if you look closely enough.
After your adventure on the water, stop off for lunch at The Meare Tearoom, where you can choose from Yorkshire tea, coffee, and hot chocolate as well as delicious cakes, toasties, bacon baps, award winning Cornish pasties, sausages rolls and lovely homemade quiches- served with chips and coleslaw. They also have lots of different ice creams plus postcards, gifts and beach items for sale too.
Saturday Afternoon
After enjoying your refreshments, set off to explore Thorpeness beach whilst looking out for some of the more unusual features of the village such as the follies and unusual architecture. There are several stunning arts and crafts period properties and it is even said that the village was designed so that no two properties are the same.
Close to the beach is the Thorpeness heritage hut where you can pop in to look at photos of the village in days gone by and find out more about the fascinating history of the village and the people who lived here. The beach itself is pleasingly wild and undisturbed, mostly shingle with some sand at low tide, it's perfect for a blustery walk with views of Aldeburgh to the south and Sizewell to the north. Amongst the pebbles, look out for amber- a rare find but not impossible.
After your walk, make your way to Thorpeness Golf Club for a round. This 18-hole, award-winning championship golf course, was designed by none other than James Braid back in 1922. The par 70 course is playable 365 days a year. For families, there's also a fun 9-hole miniature golf course on Thorpeness Meare, and if anyone in the group isn’t a fan of golf, they will be equally entertained in the comfortable Braid’s bar or Ogilvie's Restaurant, or dine alfresco on the meare-side terrace with a glass of something cold.
Saturday evening
Make the most of your visit by staying the night. There are a variety of different types of accommodation nearby to suit all needs and budgets. The Tirah Guest House is within walking distance of the village and has a selection of cosy ensuite rooms with tea and coffee facilities and breakfast included. Families might find themselves drawn to the Beach View Holiday Park with its self catering accommodation including luxury lodges, apartments and even pitches for caravans and motorhomes.
Couples will enjoy the contemporary feel of the scandi style Five Acre Barn; an award winning collection of guest suites centred around a 19th century barn. The rooms are light and airy with full height ceilings, luxury bathroom products and each with a private outdoor decking area.
If you are travelling with a larger group it is well worth spending a few nights at the iconic ‘House in the Clouds’, a structure you really can’t miss as it stands proud in the centre of Thorpeness, smiling down over the village.
This converted water tower is the most whimsical of places to stay; reminiscent of a fairytale dwelling or perhaps the Moomin house! It comprises 5 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms and several living spaces, including a panoramic view out in all directions from the top floor.
The style is eclectic and quirky with curious ephemera and vintage items all around, as well as interesting photos and artwork on the walls. If you choose to stay here, why not have your evening meal professionally catered to save you the effort of cooking? Noble Prawn is a private chef, based in Suffolk who offers in person private chef dining or home delivery suppers and puddings. They use local, seasonal ingredients to create a bespoke menu catering to your dietary requirements and providing either family style sharing or formal meals alongside canapes and cocktails if you want something a little more celebratory.
Sunday morning
Enjoy a leisurely Sunday morning and make your way to The Kitchen at Thorpeness, an independently run cafe offering great food that is locally and responsibly sourced. They serve food and drinks all day including breakfast until 11.30am and brunch until 3pm. As well as a traditional full English or veggie version, they have granola and fruit, american style pancake stack, smashed avocado toast and even ‘beer rarebit’ made with Adnams Ghostship, mature cheddar and fig and onion chutney. This place is usually pretty busy- a testament to the fresh and delicious food and the attention to detail.
After breakfast, visit the adjacent Thorpeness Emporium and look through this treasure trove of items- from books and vintage clothes, to antique pottery and crockery, Roman coins, retro toys and even some more modern items like rare lego figures and contemporary home decor items. You’ll be sure to find gifts and souvenirs aplenty here.
Sunday afternoon
If they are running that day, look out for the horse and carriage that waits nearby to the Meare and venture out on a horse-drawn tour of the local area. This family run business is a novel way to see the Suffolk coastline in style and they can take you on a short circuit around the village or further afield, as far as Aldeburgh, even stopping off at a pub on the way for refreshments.
Sunday evening
After all that fresh air you’ll have worked up quite the appetite, so head to The Dolphin Inn for a hearty and delectable meal. From inside, you’ll have panoramic views of the garden, and the cosy interior- with the local art on the walls sets the scene for a relaxing evening of dining. The menu is really outstanding, with nibbles such as maple bourbon pork belly bites and smoked paprika and squash hummus pitta to whet your appetite before starters of cajun and lime king prawns on sourdough, broccoli, stilton and red onion tartlet and parma ham and goats cheese salad to choose from.
The pub does ‘Vegan Thursdays’ with delicious dishes created by chef Jamie and the team, as well as a ‘roast and a crumble’ deal for Sunday lunch.
As for the main courses, there is a tempting steak deal which includes rump steak, salad chips and wine or beer or otherwise you can choose from a great range of dishes including a filling fish pie with a cauliflower leaf pesto, slow braised red wine ox cheeks and creamy wild mushroom, leek and pine nut gnocchi, as well as many other mouth-watering options.
The desserts are delectable and you’ll be hard-pushed to choose just one, so maybe order a range for the table to share? From warm sticky date pudding, caramelised white chocolate mousse, ginger poached pear brulee and mango rice pudding to an ample cheeseboard for those with a savoury disposition, it's a fine end to the meal and your weekend by the sea.